Venice

Burano

The island of Burano is a small world pervaded by old-world romanticism and coloured with bright colours, just 40 minutes from the centre of Venice.
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The bright colours of the houses and the muted hues of the elaborate lacework make up the varied palette known as the island of Burano. Venice ‘s most colourful island is a small world inhabited by some 3000 inhabitants, made up of five hamlets separated by three canals and connected by bridges.

Smaller than Murano and much further from the centre of Venice, it shares with the other famous Venetian island an international reputation based solely on a local tradition: what glassblowing is to Murano, bobbin lace is to Burano.

Most tourists come here to see the legendary old women sewing on their doorsteps. It is an unusual, but definitely fascinating attraction: you will not be able to take your eyes off their skilful hands capable of creating minute decorations of elaborate complexity.

To learn about the history and secrets of this centuries-old tradition, there is a fine museum, located in the central square of the island (which is also the only one); from there you can set off on an aimless exploration of the narrow streets of Burano, preferably at a slow pace to savour this corner of Venice so different from the sestiere of the old town.

Different not only in pace and peace, but also in taste. Burano has its typical specialities: the risotto di gò, prepared with the broth of ghiozzo, a typical fish of the Venetian lagoon, and the Bussolà and Esse biscuits, which are an excellent souvenir to take home.

Between relaxing strolls, breathtaking photos, romantic sunsets and hidden wonders, Burano will not make you regret moving away from Venice’s most visited attractions.

Things to do in Burano

Every corner of Burano hides a surprise: here is a guide to what to see on the island of lace.

Lace Museum

1P.za Baldassarre Galuppi, 187, 30142 Venezia VE, Italy

The must-see attraction in Burano is the Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum), entirely dedicated to the tradition between craftsmanship and art that has made this island famous all over the world.

Opened in 1981, the museum is housed in the spaces that once hosted the Burano Lace School, opened almost a century earlier by Countess Andriana Marcello with the aim of recovering and enhancing this centuries-old tradition.

On display you can admire more than two hundred precious Venetian laces made from the 16th to the 20th century (more than half coming from the school’s collection) that together with documents and preparatory drawings tell the story of lace in Burano.

You will also have the chance to see the master lacemakers at work and learn the secrets of their skilful technique.

Crooked bell tower of Burano

2P.za Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, 30142 Venezia VE, Italy

One of the best-known images of Burano is the Bell Tower next to the Church of San Martino, which immediately jumps out at you because of its steep slope due to a subsidence of the ground, a bit like Italy’s most famous leaning tower in Pisa.

At 53 metres high, the crooked Bell Tower of Burano stands out in the sky well above the roofs of the houses and is one of the first things one notices when arriving by boat on the island. Square in plan, it has been modified and restored several times over the centuries and features Renaissance and neoclassical elements.

Baldassarre Galuppi Square

3P.za Baldassarre Galuppi, 30142 Venezia VE, Italy

Galuppi Square is the only square in Burano, but even if it has no competitors, it worthily fulfils the function of the main square: it is the heart of town life, an almost obligatory point of passage for residents and tourists.

It is overlooked by some of the town’s most beautiful buildings, including the Palazzo del Podestà, seat of the town hall, the Church of San Martino and the Lace Museum. In the centre of the square is a 16th-century wellhead and an Istrian stone memorial stone decorated with bas-reliefs.

The square is named after Baldassare Galuppi, a Venetian composer who lived in the 18th century and was famous for his collaborations with Carlo Goldoni and comedy theatre. He is commemorated with a statue created by another famous local artist, the sculptor Remigio Barbaro.

Three Bridges

4Via Giudecca, 30100 Venezia VE, Italy

It is called Tre Ponti (Three Bridges) but in reality it is only one and it represents one of the best points for observing the island of Burano… and falling hopelessly in love with it!

From this wooden bridge that joins three banks (hence the name) you can enjoy the most beautiful view of Burano’s colourful houses, topped by the crooked bell tower and kissed by the sun; in the background you can see a distant, tiny Venice.

One of the best times to cross it, strictly minutes with a camera, is at sunset.

House of Bepi Suà

5Corte del Pistor, 30142 Venezia VE, Italy

Among the colourful houses of Burano there is one that stands out: its walls are not just one bright hue, they are a riot of colourful geometric shapes that create a truly stunning overall effect. This is the House of Bepi Suà, or Bepi delle Caramelle, where the buranello Giuseppe Tonelli lived, a character who has remained in the hearts of the island’s inhabitants.

Passionate about cinema, he worked as a cleaner and maintenance man in the local cinema; when the cinema closed, he earned a living selling candies in the town square and kept his passion for films alive by organising a summer film forum for the children of his neighbourhood.

Giuseppe’s other passion was painting, so much so that he used the walls of his house as a huge canvas on which he added a new drawing every year. When he died, the house was restored, keeping the exterior façade as it had been painted by Giuseppe: a feast of colours and shapes, which has become a symbol of Burano and is photographed by tourists from all over the world.

Church of St Martino Vescovo

6P.za Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, 30142 Venezia VE, Italy

Burano’s most important church is that of St Martino Vescovo, which can be admired in Piazza Galuppi. Built in the 16th century, it was restored several times; inside it houses a precious painting by Tiepolo depicting the Crucifixion dating back to the first half of the 18th century.

Island of Mazzorbo

7Mazzorbo, 30142 Venice, Metropolitan City of Venice, Italy

Burano’s sister island is Mazzorbo, which can be reached on foot in a few minutes thanks to a wooden bridge (Ponte Longo).

Sparsely populated (just over 300 inhabitants) and usually snubbed by tourists, it is a peaceful and surprising place. Once you cross the bridge you will be confronted with something you would never expect to find in Venice: vegetable gardens, orchards and vineyards. Mazzorbo is in fact a rare green oasis in the lagoon city, with almost the entire surface area occupied by cultivated fields.

The two typical products of the island of Mazzorbo are the ‘castraure’ (the first fruit of the artichoke plant) and the Dorona grape, an indigenous grape of the Venetian lagoon from which a very special white wine is produced.

The island’s attraction is the Tenuta Venissa, a private agricultural estate open to the public; within the property is a luxury wine resort, a Michelin restaurant and a contemporary-designed osteria.

Island of San Francesco del deserto

8San Francesco del Deserto, Venice, Metropolitan City of Venice, Italy

An island that can only be visited by boat trip from Burano is San Francesco del deserto, another oasis of peace that mass tourism has not affected in the slightest. The island is also known as the ‘island of the friars’ because it houses a monastery of Franciscan friars whose origins date back to the 13th century.

Map

In the following map you can see the location of the main places of interest mentioned in this article.

Where to stay in Burano

Sleeping in Burano is not a very common choice, either because of the distance from the centre of Venice or because there is little choice of accommodation and the cost is not exactly cheap. There is only one hotel in Burano, of 5-star category, to which one can add b&b and flats, almost all of them high-end.

To the cost of accommodation must then be added that of transport, considering that every time you move around the island you need a vaporetto.

It is elitist but not snobbish tourism, aiming for maximum comfort and relaxation, without dazzling guests with glamorous touches. It will cost a little more, but staying in Burano is a unique experience that will make your holiday in Venice unforgettable.

For something even more elite you can sleep at the wine resort on the island of Mazzorbo.

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How to get to Burano

The island of Burano can only be reached by boat. The cheapest way to get to Burano from the centre of Venice is to take Vaporetto (water bus) No. 12 departing from Fondamenta Nuove, about 2 km from the railway station; it is possible to arrive from other areas, but in this case you need at least one change, which increases the journey time considerably. With the direct vaporetto you can get to Burano in about 45 minutes.

Boat tours

For a few euros more than the return vaporetto ticket, you can take a boat tour of the Venetian islands: Burano is one of the islands included in most guided tours. It is a much more comfortable option than public transport and is recommended especially for those with limited time available.

Tour prices depend on the overall duration (which varies according to the itinerary and the duration of the stops) and the services included (guided tours, aperitifs, etc.).

The Burano lace: history and curiosities

Legend has it that the first Burano lace was a wedding veil given by the Queen of the Sea to a fisherman who managed to resist the sirens’ song and remain faithful to his betrothed. Extraordinarily beautiful, the veil aroused the envy of all the girls in the village, who started sewing with ever finer needle and thread in an attempt to make an even more beautiful embroidery.

History, on the other hand, tells us that the first Burano lace was made in the 16th century inside stately homes. Over the centuries they became a prized object desired by nobles throughout Europe, managing to hold their own against French embroidery.

Lace-making suffered a sharp decline at the end of the 18th century, coinciding with the end of the Serenissima, but a century later it was already experiencing a new era of splendour.

Where is located Burano

The island of Burano is located in the northern Venetian Lagoon, north-east of Murano and Venice.

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