Domus Clugiae
Chioggia - Calle Luccarini 825
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Chioggia is known to most only as the location of one of the literary masterpieces of the 18th century, Goldoni’s famous comedy ‘Le Baruffe Chiozzotte’. The sanguine temperament of the protagonists of that play has not faded over the centuries, and even today Little Venice, as it is often called, combines a popular soul with noble ambitions.
A seaside town of ancient origins, it has a shape vaguely reminiscent of a herringbone created by the furrows of three canals: the San Domenico to the east, the Vena in the centre, the Lombardo to the west. Don’t miss it: it is perfect both as the final appendix to a holiday dedicated to its more famous sister and as the absolute protagonist of a day trip… or – why not – an entire weekend.
Beyond the canals you will find bridges, calli and pastel-coloured houses with typical green balconies that will remind you of Venice, but without the tourist crowds and gondolas. The black silhouettes that ply the canals of Venice are here replaced by colourful bragozzi, typical Upper Adriatic fishing boats with brightly coloured sails.
Even the accent is completely different, and you won’t need to understand Venetian dialect to realise that Chioggia is profoundly linked to Venice by its location and history, but it is unquestionably a world of its own, projected onto the sea but with one foot firmly planted on dry land.
You get to Chioggia by car, or by bus, train or bicycle, but then you get around on foot. Museums, historical palaces, views of the lagoon will keep you busy, but it is almost certain that the top of your holiday will be the fish dinner or the spritz ritual.
To prolong the enchantment by a few hours, you can set off on wonderful boat trips on the lagoon or explore the nearby island of Pellestrina, another ‘little Venice’ little known to tourists and an ideal destination for slow tourism. Or travel from the centre of Chioggia to the nearby seaside resort of Sottomarina and lie in the sun along its wide sandy beach.
The most beautiful treasures of Chioggia, however, you will find hidden in the narrow streets on either side of the main street: characteristic corners, steeped in saltiness and stories. Who knows how many brawls have taken place and peacefully ended in these alleys!
In the small historic centre of Chioggia there is a concentration of things to see sufficient for a visit of half a day or more. Here are the attractions not to be missed, all within easy walking distance of each other.
The nerve centre of city life in Chioggia is Corso del Popolo, a wide street about 800 metres long that runs through the historic part of the city: it is the classic ‘salon’ street, where all the locals and tourists flock to stroll, shop, have a coffee or an aperitif.
On both sides it is lined with historic Venetian-style palazzi, many of them with characteristic arcades. Among the most interesting buildings along the Corso are the Town Hall, Palazzo Granaio, the Church of St. Andrew and the Church of St. James the Apostle.
The open-air tables of the Corso’s bars and cafés are perfect for a relaxing break or to watch the bustle of people.
Follow the entire Corso del Popolo in the direction of the lagoon to reach Piazzetta Vigo, one of Chioggia’s most picturesque corners.
When you reach the piazzetta you will have to stop because in front of you you will only have the immense expanse of water of the lagoon: a suggestive view that will not fail to fascinate you. It is an arrival point for pedestrians, but a departure point for those travelling by boat: in fact, both boat trips run by private operators and public vaporettos to the islands of Pellestrina and Lido di Venezia depart from here.
The Vena Canal, the most characteristic of Chioggia’s canals, flows alongside the square: you can cross it thanks to the Vigo Bridge, an elegant Venetian-style stone bridge built in the 17th century to replace an earlier wooden structure. It is an excellent vantage point from which you can take breathtaking photos.
The other famous monument in the square is the Colonna Vigo, a marble column topped by the winged lion symbol of Venice. Less majestic and less famous than the lions you can admire in St Mark’s Square, this statue is known as ‘El Gato de Ciosa’ (the cat of Chioggia).
The reason for this sarcastic nickname is explained on a note of local folklore: it refers to the statue’s modest size and testifies to the ancient rivalries between the two cities of Venice and Chioggia. Apparently, the citizens of Chioggia don’t like it much, so it’s a good idea not to be seen making fun of the statue…
Behind Corso del Popolo, overlooking the Vena Canal, is what is considered Chioggia’s top attraction: its well-stocked fish market (Pescheria al Minuto).
It is a red marquee housing 30 fresh fish stalls open every morning, except Mondays; access to the marquee is through the Portale a Prisca, an elaborate carved stone gateway by Padua artist Amleto Sartori.
For those staying in flats, a visit to the Chioggia fish market is an excellent opportunity to buy fresh ingredients to prepare a tasty dinner: sole, scallops, sardines, cuttlefish, mantis shrimps, crabs, ‘peoci’ (mussels) and more.
Put this on your list of things to see in Chioggia even if you don’t have the chance or desire to cook. The fish market al minuto is one of the most authentic places in Chioggia, lively and colourful, where you can witness a true daily ritual of the locals.
The fishmonger’s al minuto is not to be confused with the wholesale fish market, which is located on the island of Cantieri, situated between the centre of Chioggia and Sottomarina.
Located in a strategic position between the sea and the lagoon, it was established in 1960 and soon became one of the most important fish markets in Italy; today it is an important reference point for anyone involved in the sale of fish, crustaceans and molluscs.
This sort of city within a city is made up of open spaces and buildings totalling 11,000 square metres. Entrance is reserved only for accredited sector operators, but we recommend taking a peek from the outside to get an idea of the importance of fishing to Chioggia’s economy and history.
If, after the hustle and bustle of the fish market, you feel the need for a bit of silence and peace, seek it out along the Riva del Lusenzo, a bicycle and pedestrian path built parallel to the canal that runs from Chioggia to Sottomarina.
It is an easy route, entirely flat, about 5.3 km long: suitable for everyone, it is perfect for a relaxing walk with a view of the lagoon or for doing some outdoor sport. Along the route there are numerous information panels on the typical flora and fauna of the lagoon.
Housed in a former convent dating back to the 14th century, the South Lagoon Civic Museum (also called Museo Civico San Francesco Fuori le Mura after the convent) is a journey through the history of Chioggia from ancient times to the present day and a tribute to the indissoluble bond between the city and the sea.
Arranged on three floors, it exhibits archaeological finds and ethnographic materials relating to life in the lagoon; particularly interesting is the second floor, which is entirely dedicated to local seafaring and shipbuilding. Here you can discover through accurate models how the bragozzo, Chioggia’s typical boat, is built.
The medieval tour also includes a visit to a medieval cistern.
Walking through the centre of Chioggia, you cannot fail to notice the Sant’Andrea Bell Tower, a 30-metre-high red brick tower. Originally used as a lighthouse and watch tower, it is now home to one of the city’s best-loved museums: the Clock Museum.
The museum tour is spread over seven floors. The first five are dedicated to history and religion; the last two to the tower clock: built in the Middle Ages, it is one of the oldest tower clocks in the world.
On the top floor a panoramic terrace awaits you where you can rest before climbing all the stairs again. From here you can enjoy a splendid view over the rooftops of the city with the lagoon in the background.
Another unmissable marine-themed attraction in Chioggia is the Giuseppe Olivi Museum of Adriatic Zoology.
Opened in 2011, it is housed in the elegant premises of Grassi Palace, a building constructed in the early 18th century on commission of a wealthy local merchant family; it is dedicated to an important naturalist from Chioggia, author of a work still considered fundamental for those studying marine zoology.
The museum houses a collection of over 1,200 animals found in the Adriatic between the end of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, perfectly preserved in formalin or alcohol solution. On display are around 350 of them, plus historical documents, interactive multimedia installations that make you listen to the sounds of the sea and its creatures, films and audio interviews with local fishermen to pass on their rich heritage of knowledge and traditions, and more.
The highlight of the museum is a giant basking shark caught in 2003 off the coast of Chioggia: you can admire it in its real size (a good 8 metres long!) and with its original skin at the centre of a room dedicated to marine ecology.
Walking around Chioggia you can admire an elegant palace known as Poli Palace or Carlo Goldoni Palace, named after its most famous guests.
Historical documents testify that the author of ‘Le Baruffe Chiozzotte’ spent some years in this house, and it was probably here that he drew the inspiration for one of his most famous works. A century later, and into the 20th century, the palace was the home of the Poli-Smeraldi family of ship-owners, who added elegant details and improved its comfort.
Today the palazzo is a luxury b&b and should not be confused with Goldoni’s house-museum in Venice, the historic family home where the famous playwright was born in 1707.
In the following map you can see the location of the main places of interest mentioned in this article.
Chioggia and Sottomarina are formally one town, but in fact they are two completely separate realities. Both are excellent places to sleep and are so close together that going from one to the other is quite easy.
The seaside hamlet is where most of the hotels, houses and flats are concentrated: designed for the typical seaside holiday, they are located either facing the beach or a short distance away. It is an area full of bars, restaurants and nightclubs, suitable for both families and young people seeking entertainment.
In the historical centre of Chioggia, the choice of accommodation is much less, but the atmosphere is decidedly more romantic. The hotel offer consists mainly of b&b and family-run hotels, plus a couple of luxury residences. It is the best area for a couple’s weekend getaway or a cultural excursion.
Be careful when looking for your accommodation because sometimes hotels in Sottomarina are also listed under ‘Chioggia’ on booking sites. To be sure of the hotel’s location, it is best to have a look at the map.
Also bear in mind that Sottomarina is a very popular seaside resort, so in the summer months accommodation in the area is sold out. Better book in advance!
Reaching Chioggia by car is very easy because the city is located along the SS309 Romea, a state road that runs from Venice Mestre to Ravenna and is one of the most important roads in north-eastern Italy. Arriving in Veneto from the A4 motorway, you can take the Romea by exiting at Padova Interporto and following the signs for Piove di Sacco.
If you visit Chioggia on weekends during the summer months, plan your visit carefully because at peak times the traffic along the Romea state road is very heavy, with queues that can last for hours.
For those travelling by public transport, Chioggia is easily accessible by bus from Venice (Piazzale Roma and Mestre) or Padua; local buses connect the city centre to the seaside village of Sottomarina.
It is possible to arrive by sea from Venice, but you will have to take the vaporetto from the island of Lido: it is a fascinating but long journey, recommended only for those with plenty of time.
Even more complicated is getting to Chioggia by train. The train station is about a five-minute walk from the centre but is located along the Adria-Loreo, a minor railway line served only by regional trains to Rovigo. There are therefore no trains to Chioggia from Venice or other major Veneto cities.
The nearest airport is Venice, which is served by numerous low-cost flights to all of Italy.
Chioggia is a municipality in the province of Venice, almost equidistant from the provincial capital (to the north) and the city of Padua (to the east). The distance by road is approximately 50 km, although Venice is much closer as the crow flies.
Located along the east coast of Veneto, Chioggia is washed by the Adriatic Sea.
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