In eastern Veneto, along the banks of the Lemene river, lies the charming town of Portogruaro, which is famous for being ‘a little Venice of the hinterland’ thanks to its canals and numerous mills. Already during the Roman period, the city occupied a strategic position along the Via Annia, but it was in the 11th century that an urban core was built along the banks of the Lemene and Versiola rivers. Having passed under the rule of the Serenissima, the city became an important port centre that made it grow prosperous and flourishing. The name Portogruaro, in fact, derives from the fact that this location was the port of the town of ‘Gruaro’.
In later years, the town came under French rule and then under Austrian rule until the proclamation of the Kingdom of Italy. In the mid-19th century, Portogruaro was connected first to Venice and then to Trieste thanks to the construction of the railway network. However, Portogruaro’s fame is also due to the writer Ippolito Nievo who, in his famous work ‘Le confessioni di un italiano’ (The Confessions of an Italian), describes the people of Portogruaro with irony and sympathy for their desire to resemble the Venetians.
The city of Portogruaro is a town to be discovered on foot, since among its narrow streets are several canals crossed by bridges, numerous mills and fascinating 16th-century palazzi.
The historical centre, in particular, is characterised by the presence of two main streets that run parallel to the Lemene river, and it is this area that was once within medieval walls surrounded by a moat. Today, only three of the five ancient entrances to the city remain: San Gottardo, Sant’Agnese and San Giovanni.
Located in Piazza della Repubblica, the Town Hall is one of the oldest buildings in Portogruaro and the current seat of the municipality. The building is in Gothic style with exposed brickwork, Ghibelline merlons and single lancet windows. The central body of the building was first constructed in the 13th century, while the side wings were added around the 16th century. Anelegant external staircase made of Istrian stone leads to the entrance door, which is surmounted by the municipal coat of arms and two coats of arms of the noble Venetian Tron family. Inside, the Palazzo houses important paintings by the Portogruaro artist Luigi Russolo.
The Municipal Villa is a well-known aristocratic palace that was built in the mid-16th century by the Italian architect Guglielmo Bergamasco. The palace was commissioned by the noble Frattina family that descended from the Squarra, one of the oldest families in Portogruaro.
In the 20th century, the building underwent major works that altered its original appearance and unfortunately lost the frescoes depicting satyrs, horses and other monsters. To the rear of the Villa is a park of approximately three hectares that is home to more than sixty species of plants, including trees, shrubs and creepers.
The Portogruaro Museum is located in the ancient Tower of St Agnes, which dates back to the 13th century and is one of the three surviving towers of Portogruaro. The site allows visitors to learn more about the history of the city and its territory thanks to the collection of coats of arms, statues, epigraphs, weapons, tools and medals. In the entrance there are images of 16th and 17th century Portogruaro showing the river banks with mills and the Town Hall.
A paper section consisting of manuscripts, old books, drawings, plans and period photographs, on the other hand, allows visitors to learn more about the town in the late 19th and early 20th century. In the room on the upper floor there is a section containing specimens of weapons and tools from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, as well as a space for temporary exhibitions.
Portogruaro Cathedral was built in neoclassical style by local architect Antonio De Marchi around the end of the 18th century. Inside, it has three naves with decorations and frescoes painted in the 20th century by important authors such as Tiburzio Donadon and Jacopo Negretti.
However, the Cathedral’s peculiarity lies in its bell tower, which is considered the third steepest in Italy as it has a 42-cm slope from the base to the spire. The building is in Romanesque style and in 1879 with the reconstruction of the spire it was raised by 12 metres, from 47 to the current 59 metres.
Portogruaro is a small town in the Veneto region that is not considered a top tourist destination. For this reason, the choice of accommodation in the city is good but not particularly wide.
In the historic centre there are a few good-value hotels, several B&Bs and a few flats. The offer expands if you search outside the centre and in the surrounding areas, since the city is not far from towns such as Bibione and Caorle.
Reaching Portogruaro by car is really easy, both for those coming from the north and for those coming from the south, thanks to the presence of the Portogruaro tollgate located along the A4 motorway and the A28 Portogruaro-Conegliano motorway. Those wishing to travel by train can get off at the Portogruaro-Caorle station, which is connected to towns in the Veneto region such as Venice, Treviso and San Donà di Piave, as well as to places in Friuli such as Trieste and Monfalcone.
Buses of local companies connect the city to destinations such as Caorle, Bibione, Lignano Sabbiadoro, Jesolo and other Veneto towns. The nearest airports are those of Venice, Treviso and Trieste, which are all approximately 60 km from the city.
What's the weather at Portogruaro? Below are the temperatures and the weather forecast at Portogruaro for the next few days.