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St.Mark is not the most famous square in Venice. It is the only one: all the others are campi and campielli; the only ones that can boast of being called piazzette owe this name to their connection with the main square.
It is unique not only in name, but also in beauty, fame and importance: few other places in the world have entered the collective imagination with such force as St. Mark’s Square. Although seen countless times in postcards, films, magazines, news reports and more recently on social channels, it always remains at the top of every list of places to see at least once in a lifetime.
Over the centuries, St. Mark’s Square has been a worldly salon, the scene of major city events, a location for unforgettable films, a photographic set for fashion and advertising, a backdrop for romantic marriage proposals. Sissi lived here for months, and the square’s historic cafés had poets, patriots, patrons and other men of intellect among their illustrious patrons.
It may be snobbish, but St. Mark’s welcomes everyone indiscriminately, men of power and commoners, cultured people and pranksters. This monumental square of absolute architectural perfection is still the nerve centre of Venice: a crossroads through which thousands of lives, tourists and Venetians alike, pass every day.
Sooner or later, everyone passes through here. And when do you plan to come?
One of the most opulent squares in the world was originally… a vegetable garden. The first work was done in the 9th century, but with the arrival of St Mark’s body and the construction of a first church, the square began to change its appearance; it was modified several times over the centuries until it took on its current appearance.
The buildings facing the square were constructed in different periods, from the Renaissance to the 19th century: some have a typically Italian elegance, others show clear oriental influences, others echo the splendour of Austrian courts.
The shape of the square is not rectangular, as it might seem once you are there: instead, it is trapezoidal. One side is occupied by St Mark’s Basilica, the one opposite by the Napoleonic Wing; the other two sides are the Procuratie Vecchie, Nuove and Nuovissime.
It is 175 metres long and 57 metres wide on the shorter side, 83 metres wide on the longer side (that of the Basilica).
It occupies one side, but it is symbolically the centre of the square, partly because the history of the square revolves around it, and partly because it catalyzes the gaze of all visitors who come here. We are talking about the magnificent St Mark’s Basilica, the top attraction in Venice, the second most visited monument in Italy (after the Colosseum in Rome) and one of the most beautiful churches in the world.
It was built in the 11th century on the remains of a church already dedicated to St Mark, which in turn replaced an earlier chapel dedicated to St Theodore. Centuries of history are layered into the elaborate architecture of this church: the result is a unique fusion of Roman, Venetian and Byzantine culture.
The architectural layout is inspired by that of the Basilica of the Twelve Apostles in Constantinople. Both the façade and the interior are richly adorned with a riot of marbles, mosaics, columns, sculptures: suffice it to say that along the façade alone there are more than four hundred decorative elements. No tourist has ever stopped to count them to verify that this is true, but everyone has been left speechless at the beauty of their overall effect. No less astonishing is the interior of the basilica, which will not make you regret the gruelling queues.
Admission to the basilica is free, but the visit is not complete without some paid areas (St Mark’s Museum, the Golden Pall and the Treasure of St Mark).
Although it is possible to visit the basilica on your own, it is strongly recommended to book a guided tour in the company of an experienced guide. Only in this way can you fully grasp the historical and artistic grandeur of this unique monument.
Things to do in St Mark’s Square besides the famous basilica? Other splendid palaces overlook the square, and to these are added other monuments that have become an emblem of the city.
Here are the attractions not to be missed!
In St Mark’s Square, it is impossible not to notice the magnificent Doge’s Palace, which during the years of the Venetian Republic was the seat of the Doge. The Doge’s Palace is located right next to St Mark’s Basilica and overlooks the quay. Distinguished by a predominantly Gothic style but also drawing inspiration from Byzantine and Oriental architecture, the Doge’s Palace is spread over three sides and has an elegant porticoed courtyard inside.
There are two main façades: the one on St. Mark’s Square and the one overlooking St. Mark’s Basin, while the third faces the canal known as Rio di Palazzo. Inside, it is now possible to visit the Doge’s Palace Museum, which houses works by famous Venetian masters such as Jacopo and Domenico Tintoretto, Tiziano Vecellio, Francesco Bassano, Paolo Veronese, Giambattista Zelotti and Jacopo Palma il Giovane.
An iconic monument in Venice is the Campanile (bell tower) of St Mark’s Basilica, so important to Venetians that they call it ‘el paròn de casa’ (the master of the house).
The austere witness to the daily life of Venetians and important historical events is an imposing red-brick tower topped by an elegant loggia and a green pinnacle; a golden statue of the Archangel Gabriel towers above it all. On two sides of the loggia are two winged lions, the symbol of the city of Venice. The tower has five bells, each with its own name and function. The most popular among Venetians is the Marangona, which signalled the beginning and end of the working day.
The first tower was built in the 9th century and served a defensive function and as a lighthouse for ships; its current appearance dates back to the 16th century. The tower we admire today is a faithful reconstruction carried out following its collapse in 1902.
Just under one hundred metres high, St Mark’s Campanile is the tallest building in Venice: the best vantage point in the city, from where you can enjoy a splendid view over the canals, the palaces of the centre and the lagoon.
Another architectural marvel of Venice that has become a city symbol is the Renaissance Clock Tower, also known as the Torre dei Mori. It was built in the late 16th century and modified several times over the centuries.
It has a square shape like the Campanile, but it is lower and more elegant and fits in between the buildings facing the square, at the same time representing an element of connection and rupture. On the lower level there is an arch connecting the square to the ancient Merceria, an important commercial artery of yesterday and today: for a triumphal entrance to St Mark’s enter here.
There are two elements that have made this tower famous. One is the astronomical clock with its blue and gold dial that has marked the time, day, moon phases and zodiac signs for over 500 years: a masterpiece of engineering, technique and aesthetics.
The other is the famous Moors of Venice, the Old (bearded) and the Young: these are the two bronze statues at the top of the tower that mark the hours by striking a bell, which have also become a symbol of the city.
The place of honour, between the bell and the clock, belongs to a triumphant Lion of St Mark.
Older than the historic Viennese cafés, as sumptuous as a royal palace, the Caffè Florian is the most famous of the elegant venues on St. Mark’s Square.
It is an irresistible lure for many visitors who dream of sitting at one of its tables as the nobles and intellectuals of the 18th and 19th centuries did. But like a seductive siren song, even the oldest café in the world (opened in 1720) hides a great trap, and you will understand what we are talking about when the bill is brought to you…
If you are prepared to spare no expense, treat yourself to a moment of luxury and relaxation in the magnificent rooms that enchanted Casanova, Byron and many other illustrious patrons, all richly ornamented and restored to their 19th-century splendour thanks to expert restoration work. You will find it about halfway along the Procuratie Nuove arcades, on the same side of the Campanile square.
Try the Bellini, the typical Venetian cocktail made with prosecco and crushed peach.
Turn your back to St Mark’s Basilica and look straight ahead: on the opposite side of the square stands the Ala Napoleonica, the elegant 19th-century building constructed during the Napoleonic era and later the seat of the Habsburg court.
The elegant rooms with neoclassical decorations that welcomed Austrian heads of state, soldiers and diplomats are now home to Museo Correr, one of Venice’s most important museums. The original nucleus of the collection is the donation made to the city by the collector Teodoro Correr, who died in 1830, later expanded with other private donations and acquisitions.
A visit to Museo Correr is a fascinating journey through the art, history and culture of Venice. The museum tour inside the ‘modern palace’ of Venice (modern as opposed to the Doge’s Palace, which was the seat of power before the arrival of Napoleon) includes
The same building also houses the National Archaeological Museum.
For some it is still St Mark’s Square, for others it is not. Depending on how you look at it, Piazzetta San Marco is a kind of appendix to the main square or an integral part of it. It is the area that extends from the basilica towards the canal (St Mark’s basin) and is bordered by the Doge’s Palace and the Marciana National Library (or Libreria Sansoviniana).
Strolling through this fascinating area you cannot fail to notice two tall granite columns with capitals in the Veneto-Byzantine style: they were brought from the East in the 12th century. From above the capitals look down on the city below a lion of St Mark (the column towards the Doge’s Palace) and St Theodore, the city’s patron before St Mark (Library side).
Next to the basilica, on the north side, is the Piazzetta dei Leoncini (also known as Piazzetta de San Basso), an area bordered by historical buildings that forms a sort of smaller square with a raised central part.
This part is accessed by climbing three steps bordered by the statues of crouching lions that give the square its name; in the centre of the raised area is a well.
Gondolas in Venice can be seen almost everywhere, but seeing them at San Marco is a special thrill.
The long rows of elegant and mysterious black silhouettes floating on the lagoon, heedless of the hubbub of tourists and vendors behind them, are a highly romantic and evocative image: you may have seen them a thousand times on postcards, websites and magazines, but seeing them in real life is something else entirely.
It is no coincidence that St Mark’s basin is one of the most popular starting points for a gondola ride; the advantage of starting the tour from here is that you are sure to pass under the famous Bridge of Sighs.
In the following map you can see the location of the main places of interest mentioned in this article.
Even today, St Mark’s Square is the nerve centre of Venice: the place where everyone wants to come and an extraordinary setting for all the city’s most important events.
Thoughts immediately turn to Carnival: Venice’s centuries-old, world-famous tradition includes a packed calendar of events of all kinds, for all ages, scattered throughout the city, but of these all the main events take place in St Mark’s.
The most exciting is the Volo dell’Angelo (Flight of the Angel), a ritual that for centuries has been considered the start of the celebrations (although it is not actually the first event of the Carnival). A woman dressed in a splendid Venetian costume crosses the square attached to a pulley starting from the Campanile and landing on a parterre in a jubilant crowd.
St Mark’s also hosts the parades of the Most Beautiful Mask Competition, the proclamation of the winner of the Feste delle Marie and the most important concerts. The square is also the meeting point for those with little time on their hands who are content with a taste of Carnival while watching the famous Venetian masks stroll by.
Venice has always been one of the most popular destinations for New Year’s Eve and San Marco is the place where all those who love to celebrate in the square flock. The atmosphere has nothing to envy that of other world-famous squares of which we have all seen images on TV, such as London, Paris, New York and Madrid.
Part religious festival, part spectacle, the Festa del Redentore takes place on the third Sunday in July and is one of the most heartfelt traditions among Venetians. The focus of the festival is the island of Giudecca, which can only be reached on foot on this occasion because it is connected by a bridge of boats.
Piazza San Marco is once again the meeting place for the crowds of tourists. This is where we all gather in the evening to wait for the great fireworks display; at midnight everyone turns their noses upwards to admire the fireworks that light up the sky and colour the black waters of the lagoon red, green, purple and a thousand other colours. An unmissable spectacle!
The Regata Storica also departs from St Mark’s basin, a procession of typical Venetian rowing boats that parades along the Grand Canal recalling the triumphant welcome given to the Queen of Cyprus in 1489.
St Mark’s Square is one of the most visited places in the world, so much so that it has become the emblem of mass tourism.
The queues to access the Basilica and the Bell Tower are very long and heat and humidity can make them very difficult to tolerate. At peak times, even simply walking around the square can be nerve-racking: you will find yourself having to slalom between groups of 50 people, guides scrambling to avoid losing tourists in the street and people of all sorts stopping for the customary photo or selfie.
How to survive such a crowd and manage to enjoy the beauty of the square without getting nervous? There are only two possible ways.
One is to leave very early and get to the square as soon as possible, beating the day-trippers.
The other is to buy tickets online that allow you to skip the queues at the entrance. Choose an official tourist card that includes all the attractions you are interested in so you can save a little. Entrances to the attractions in St Mark’s Square are rather expensive, so you should pay attention to these organisational details.
For high water there is unfortunately no remedy, but if you leave with the knowledge that it could happen, you will not be disappointed. In the right spirit, it can even be fun.
Feeding the pigeons in St Mark’s Square is forbidden. You will still find vendors offering to feed you so you can attract pigeons and take your picture, but they are all squatters and by buying from them you risk a fine.
Let us conclude with one thing that is worth repeating: the bars in St Mark’s Square are expensive. A simple coffee can cost you seven euros, or even more if there is musical entertainment. If you want to sit at the small tables in the square, do so knowing what you are getting into; there is no point in questioning the price after you have eaten.
City Card allow you to save on public transport and / or on the entrances to the main tourist attractions.
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