Verona

Verona Arena

Verona’s number one attraction is undoubtedly the Arena. If the Colosseum did not exist, it would be the most famous Roman amphitheatre in Italy, but it can still boast of being one of the largest preserved Roman amphitheatres. In fact, it is in better condition than the Colosseum, thanks to many restorations over the centuries, and has established itself as the most impressive event venue of the modern age.

Built in the 1st century A.D., in antiquity the Verona Arena hosted the classic gladiator shows and could hold 30,000 spectators. Today, it is the temple of Italian opera: a magnificent open-air stage for spectacular productions featuring up to 150 musicians, 200 chorus artists, 100 dancers and 200 extras in addition to the lead singers, and attended by 15,000 spectators.

The first opera staged at the Arena was Verdi’s Aida, performed in 1913 to mark the centenary of the famous composer’s death. It was a resounding success and since then seeing an opera at the Arena has been the dream of every classical music fan. It is also the best baptism for people with little knowledge of the genre: the atmosphere created during the performances is unequalled elsewhere and is able to involve even the least interested spectators.

It is possible to visit the Veona Arena during the day, if no rehearsals are scheduled.

Bra Square

The Verona Arena is appropriately located in the beautiful Brà Square, one of the three famous squares in the centre of Verona. For many tourists, it is the gateway to the historic city centre and not surprisingly the starting point of many guided tours.

Upon arrival in Bra Square, tourists’ eyes are immediately captured by the majesty of the Arena, but it is also worth taking a look at the other historical buildings and monuments on this beautiful square, from different eras and styles.

Some of the most beautiful include: Barbieri Palace, in neoclassical style, is the seat of the town hall; the Gran Guardia Palace, a monumental building ninety metres long with thirteen magnificent arcades; the Listòn, an elegant paved pavement typical of Venetian cities that serves as the city’s living room.

Piazza delle Erbe

The other symbolic square of Verona is the central Piazza delle Erbe, the oldest square in the city: it stands on the site of the former Roman forum and is still today the nerve centre of city life.

Here too, the square is bordered by splendid buildings from the medieval and Renaissance periods, including the former Palazzo del Comune, the Casa dei Giudici, the Palazzo Maffei the Casa dei Mercanti and a group of houses with frescoes on the outside known as the Case Mazzanti. The centre of the square is ideally marked by a fountain from Roman times, which the locals have renamed ‘Madonna Verona’.

To get to Piazza delle Erbe from Piazza Brà, take Via Mazzini: this narrow pedestrian street is the shopping street par excellence.

Lamberti Tower

The best-known monument in Piazza delle Erbe is the Lamberti Tower, a red-brick tower that towers 84 metres above all the buildings in the centre of Verona: it is certainly the best vantage point in the city.

It was built in the 12th century at the behest of a wealthy Veronese family later banished from the city. At the end of the 13th century the two bells were added, while the clock was added five centuries later. In the 15th century the tower was damaged by lightning, but was rebuilt and erected with the addition of an elegant octagonal brick and white marble belfry.

The tower is currently open to visitors during daytime hours; in the evenings it is only open for special events.

A visit to the Lamberti Tower is highly recommended because from its top you can enjoy a splendid view of the city. It is possible to purchase a combined ticket for entrance to the tower and the Achille Forti Gallery of Modern Art.

Piazza dei Signori

Next to Piazza delle Erbe is Piazza dei Signori, the third stop on the tour of Verona’s squares.

To go from one to the other, one crosses the Arco della Costa, so called because a whale rib hangs from the arch. It has been there for at least four hundred years, which would suggest that Verona is full of dishonest people… but this is just a legend. In fact, it is said that the rib will fall to the ground when an honest and pure-hearted person passes under the arch.

The square is also known as Piazza Dante due to the presence of a statue dedicated to the Supreme Poet.

Buildings worth a look (and a photo!) are the Palazzo della Ragione, the Palazzo del Podestà, the Loggia del Consiglio, the Palazzo di Cansignorio and the Church of Santa Maria Antica.

Arche Scaligere

Continuing the walking tour of the centre of Verona that began in Piazza Brà, we arrive at the Arche Scaligere, the monumental medieval funerary complex a stone’s throw from Piazza dei Signori.

This Gothic-style complex, gathered within an elegant wrought-iron enclosure, includes the tombs of the most important members of the Della Scala or Scaligeri family, the lords of Verona.

Three marble canopied tombs stand out, sumptuously decorated and surmounted by an equestrian statue of the deceased. These are the tombs of Cangrande I, the lord of Verona famous for having hosted Dante Alighieri, Mastino II and Cansignorio. The latter is easily recognisable because it is by far the most sumptuous, richly decorated.

Castelvecchio

The symbol of medieval Verona is the Scaliger Castle, better known as Castelvecchio. It is the typical castle-fortress built for defensive purposes and characterised by an austere appearance, with walls and crenellated towers: the 42-metre-high Mastio stands out among them.

It was erected in the first half of the 14th century at the behest of Cangrande II della Scala on the remains of an earlier Roman fortress and subsequently enlarged.

Restored in the mid-twentieth century, Castelvecchio today houses the Civic Museum of Verona. Inside you can admire more than 600 works of art from medieval, Renaissance and modern times (up to the 18th century).

Castelvecchio Bridge

Among the many bridges in the centre of Verona, the most famous is the Castelvecchio Bridge (also known as Scaligero Bridge), a magnificent brick and marble bridge with three arches built in the 14th century.

The bridge is an integral part of the castle; originally it provided an escape route in case of enemy attacks. In 1945 it was blown up by the Germans, but reconstruction began in the same year and was completed in 1951.

Verona Cathedral

Just outside the old city, at the tip of the bend formed by the Adige, is the Cathedral of Santa Maria Matricolare.

The cathedral is part of an architectural complex that also includes the baptistery of San Giovanni in Fonte, the church of St. Helen with its archaeological excavations and the canons’ cloister.

The exterior combines Romanesque style with Gothic elements; the interior is more opulent, embellished with valuable works of art.

San Zeno Maggiore Basilica

Another church in Verona worth visiting is the San Zeno Basilica, which can be reached on foot from the centre in about 20 minutes.

The church is named after the African saint who is believed to have converted the Veneto populations to Christianity; his name is linked to numerous local legends and tales of miracles.

It was built at the end of the first millennium on the remains of an earlier early Christian church, already dedicated to San Zeno; it was completed at the end of the 14th century.

Museum of Frescos Giovanni Battista Cavalcaselle

Unfortunate is the fate of the Museum of Frescos in Verona: many tourists rush through it to reach its most famous room, the crypt containing Juliet’s tomb.

But why not stop to admire the splendid works in the museum collection? These are magnificent medieval and Renaissance frescoes that originally decorated Veronese palaces and churches.

Casa Museo Palazzo Maffei

The Casa Museo Palazzo Maffei is located in the city’s most important Baroque palace, which has been skilfully restored and has become an exhibition venue for an important collection spanning the centuries. Opened in 2020, it presents over 600 works to the public in an unprecedented dialogue between the arts: from Greco-Roman archaeology to Veronese artistic history, from the international avant-garde of the 20th century to contemporary art.

Particularly noteworthy are the masterpieces ranging from Italian Futurism, Metaphysics and Surrealism, as well as abstract painting from the second half of the 20th century: Boccioni, Balla, Severini, Picasso, de Chirico, Morandi and then Magritte, Max Ernst, Picasso, Duchamp, Kandinsky, Warhol through to Fontana, Burri, Manzoni and Vedova, to name but a few of the main artists in the collection.

Giusti Garden

Those who visit Verona in one day invariably miss it due to lack of time, but if you stay longer be sure to include the romantic Giusti Garden on your list of things to see in Verona.

This is an Italian-style garden created in the 16th century by Agostino Giusti, a descendant of a wealthy family that had moved to the Veneto from Tuscany two centuries earlier. According to the taste of the time, the garden is characterised by elegant symmetries and is embellished with fountains, statues and grottoes.

The garden is located in Veronetta, a historic district to the left of the Adige River where the university’s main campus is located; it can be reached from the city centre on foot, by local buses or the Hop On Hop Off tourist bus.

Roman Theatre

Besides the Arena, Verona also boasts a splendid Roman Theatre, also used for open-air performances. Older than the Arena (dating back to the 1st century BC), it was built using the natural slope of a hill along the banks of the Adige River.

If the Arena is the sacred place of opera, the Roman theatre is a must-see for Shakespeare fans: in fact, an important festival is held here every year that brings the English playwright’s most famous works to the stage. It is also used for modern theatre, dance and music performances.

The theatre is included in the tour of the Archaeological Museum of Verona: with a single ticket you can see the actual theatre, a model reproducing it as it was in Roman times, and a collection of Roman artefacts found in the Verona area.

It is located in the Veronetta district, about 2 km from Piazza Bra; it can be reached on foot with a nice walk along the river.

Juliet's House

The building known worldwide as Juliet’s House is a medieval tower house that was probably the residence of the Dal Cappello family, the historical Guelph family that inspired the Capulets of Shakespearean tragedy.

Although there is no historical evidence that a Capulet Juliet lived in this house, and the renovation of the house has not been very faithful to historical accuracy, the building is an attraction of international appeal, having become a symbol of eternal love and a pilgrimage destination for all romantic lovers (reciprocated or not).

In 1907, the municipality of Verona bought part of the building, which over time has been turned into a museum to display paintings and frescoes from the medieval period, a collection of prints and engravings depicting the famous love story, and everyday objects from the medieval and Renaissance periods. You can also see the double bed used in the film ‘Romeo and Juliet’ by Franco Zeffirelli and some stage costumes.

The top attraction of Juliet’s house-museum, however, is the famous balcony from which, according to legend, the unfortunate protagonist of the most famous love story of all time looked out. You too can feel like Juliet for a day by climbing to the top of the stairs and looking out onto the balcony, but be prepared for a long queue because many other people want to try this unique experience!

If you are not interested in visiting the museum or looking out from the balcony, you can enter the courtyard of the house for free and photograph the balcony from below. At one time the walls leading into the courtyard were covered with graffiti with the names of lovers who had visited the house; today writing on the walls is forbidden.

Juliet's Statue

In the courtyard of Juliet’s House there is a very famous bronze statue with the maiden’s likeness. It is actually a copy of the famous statue made by the Veronese artist Nereo Costantini on behalf of the municipality of Verona in 1968.

The idea of placing a statue was suggested by Shakespeare himself, who in Act 5 of the tragedy makes the dead girl’s father say these words: ‘I will raise a statue all of gold to Juliet; and as long as the city of Verona endures, no other image shall be so honoured as that of pure and faithful Juliet’.

One could say that these were prophetic words. For years and years, tourists flocked to see the famous statue, which soon became associated with a superstitious ritual: the rumour spread that touching Juliet’s breast brought good luck in love.

Lots of groping had a negative effect on the statue’s health, so in 2014 it was replaced by the copy.

The original statue was moved to the inner atrium of the house-museum, where tourists can still admire it without touching it. From the colour of the two breasts, you can easily recognise the one that was habitually touched by tourists; the ultimate proof is the small hole left at the level of the propitiatory breast.

Romeo's House

Romeo also had his house in Verona, but the latter is much less famous than that of his beloved. It is located a short distance from Juliet’s House, in the same street as the Arche Scaligere, and is a historic building that was the home of the Monticoli, the Ghibelline family that became the Montagues in Shakespeare’s tragedy.

The Romeo’s House is a typical medieval house, large in size; the side facing the street is sheltered by a high crenellated wall, which leaves little to imagine of what lies within.

The building is now largely privately owned and therefore cannot be visited; one wing of the building, however, houses a typical osteria serving traditional Veneto cuisine. You can enjoy a good dinner while imagining young Romeo fortuitously leaving the palace to meet his beloved Juliet.

Portoni della Brà

The entrance to Brà Square is on the south side through a majestic arched gateway built in the 14th century and known as the Portoni della Brà. Originally the gateway was intended to serve as a link between Castelvecchio and a fortified citadel of which only a few remains of walls near Piazza Cittadella remain today.

A famous quote from ‘Romeo and Juliet’ can be read on the gate. These are the words uttered by Romeo as he leaves for exile to Mantua: “There is no world outside the walls of Verona: but only purgatory, torture, hell; he who is banished from here, is banished from the world; and exile from the world is death.”

This would therefore be the place where Romeo bid farewell to his hometown before his exile.

Juliet's Tomb

An ideal tour of Verona’s Romeo and Juliet-themed attractions can only end at the place symbolic of the epilogue of this sad love story, namely Juliet’s tomb.

Don’t expect anything triumphal or glitzy: the tomb of the Shakespearean heroine is a humble red marble sarcophagus placed in the centre of a small underground crypt in a deconsecrated monastery.

Numerous legends and rituals due to superstition are linked to this sarcophagus, which over the centuries caused the removal of small marble fragments by history enthusiasts and the curious. It is said that some of these fragments became a pair of earrings and a necklace worn by the French Empress Marie-Louise of Habsburg-Lorraine.

The monastery where the sarcophagus is kept is the Convent of San Francesco al Corso, located about 1 km from the centre in an area that was outside the city walls at the time of Romeo and Juliet’s adventures. This explains why Romeo could reach it even though he was banned from the city of Verona.

It is only possible to see Juliet’s tomb by purchasing a ticket to the Museo degli Affreschi Giovanni Battista Cavalcaselle.