Agriturismo Vecio Portico
Marostica - 83 Via Ponticello
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Marostica is a pretty walled town in the province of Vicenza. There are three good reasons to visit it: the thrill of a unique spectacle, the charm of a fascinating medieval castle, and the irresistible goodness of the cherries.
The spectacle that cannot be seen elsewhere is the chess game with living characters that is staged every two years to commemorate a real game played in the 15th century.
Today, as then, the pawns are flesh-and-blood people who move following the commands of two knights in love with the same maiden (real characters in the Middle Ages, actors in the present day); the chessboard is the elegant marble floor of one of Italy’s most beautiful squares.
The Marostica chess game is one of the most famous and spectacular historical re-enactments in Italy, a must for anyone who loves the pageantry of noble courts. Hundreds of actors and figurants take part in this grandiose event, portraying ladies and knights, master of ceremonies, jesters, heralds and other characters typical of medieval sagas with seriousness and passion.
The Marostica Castle is the landmark building of Marostica and comprises two buildings joined by a 1800-metre-long wall. On match days, it is a bit of a backdrop and a bit of a witness to the pomp and circumstance. When the dispute is over as planned, the castle once again becomes the city’s top attraction.
Marostica’s other top event is the cherry festival held in May. Outside Veneto it cannot boast the same fame as chess, but within the region it is no less loved and awaited. The Marostica cherry was the first to be awarded the PGI recognition mark: one leads to another, and a visit to Marostica makes you want to come back again.
Marostica ‘s attractions are concentrated in and around the old town centre; the centre is small and can be easily walked around. Half a day is enough to visit the town, but if you want to take it easy and maybe add a walk outside the town, calculate more time.
The official name is Piazza Castello (Castle Square) but for everyone it is the Piazza degli Scacchi (Chess Square) in Marostica. We are talking about the town’s top attraction, the famous square in the heart of the historic centre where the event that has made this town world famous takes place.
However, you do not need to come on the occasion of the famous game to fall in love with this square: unique and evocative, it can be appreciated any day of the year.
Built in the 14th century by the Scaligeri as a place of trade, the square is rectangular in shape and is bordered by splendid medieval and Venetian palaces. On the south side stands the impressive Lower Castle complex, on the north side the Doglione Palace and on the east and west sides porticoed palaces. The natural setting of the square is a green hill behind it on which stands the Upper Castle.
The centre of the square is marked by the Liston, a raised stone pavement built in the second half of the 15th century on which the chessboard is set.
The Lower Castle is the medieval square-shaped building that overlooks Piazza degli Scacchi and is the backdrop to the famous game. It was built in the 14th century by the Scaligeri and was originally a defensive construction, also used as a customs house and occasionally as a residence.
In the 15th century, with the passage to the Venetian Republic, the castle was transformed into a praetorian palace; the division into a servile floor and a noble floor and the addition of larger windows dates back to this period. Over the centuries it was used as an Austrian gendarmerie, prison, and municipal offices. In 2006, extensive restoration work was completed, returning the Lower Castle to its original appearance.
It is currently open to individual visitors and groups; guided tours must be booked in advance. During the tour you can see the Court of Arms, the Loggia, the Piano Nobile, Prospero Alpini’s historic apothecary shop, the Venetian and Austrian prisons, the Captain’s room and the patrol path.
The castle also houses the Chess Game Costume Museum and the Game Armoury. You will thus have the opportunity to see clothing and weapons used by the participants in the historical re-enactment.
Older than the castle overlooking the square is the Upper Castle, perched atop Monte Pausolino, the hill overlooking the town of Marostica.
Unfortunately it is not as well preserved as the Lower Castle, but it is still an attraction not to be missed during a visit to Marostica. There is only one part of the original building that has been restored and is now home to a luxury restaurant.
What makes the Lower Castle worth a visit is its splendid location: it is the best vantage point in Marostica and from here you can take magnificent photographs of the town and the surrounding hills.
Although tiring, the walk to the Upper Castle is very pleasant. It starts from Piazza degli Scacchi, climbs to the upper part of the centre of Marostica and continues with a steep flight of steps through an olive grove.
The walls of Marostica Castle are almost 2 km long; the patrol walkways follow the entire length of the walls.
They are crenellated walls interspersed with 24 turrets; on three of these are the gates that once gave access to the town and the gate leading to the entrance of the Upper Castle. Vicentina Gate is to the south, Bassanese Gate is to the east, Breganzina Gate to the west and Tramontana Gate to the north.
Along the way from the Lower Castle to the Upper Castle is the Church of the Carmini, the most famous religious building in Marostica. It is a 17th-century church with an elegant white façade that stands out against the green slopes of the hill on which the castle stands.
The centre of Marostica is an ideal starting point for wonderful walks in the greenery surrounding the town. The most famous, and the one recommended for those staying in town for a short time, is the one leading to the Upper Castle.
If you prefer a longer walk, follow the route leading to the small church of Sant’Agata via the lonely and romantic hills of San Benedetto. There are actually two possible routes: a linear one that takes two hours round trip, and a circular one of about three hours.
In both cases, to find the start of the route, leave the Porta Bassanese and walk along the outer walls until you reach the bridge over the Longhella river.
Marostica is not far from Bassano del Grappa, another unmissable location in the Vicenza area: the two towns can be combined in a single trip.
The most famous attraction in Bassano is the famous Alpines’ Bridge, an evocative wooden bridge over the Piave River linked to the historical events of the First World War. The Nardini distillery, a real institution in the area, is worth a stop, and if you have time it is also worth taking a walk along the river.
Known as a game, the living chess game in Marostica is actually a love affair that actually took place in 1454. The protagonists of the game are Rinaldo D’Angarano and Vieri da Vallonara, two warriors in love with the same woman: Lionora, daughter of the Castellan of Marostica Taddeo Parisio.
The two warriors wanted to challenge each other to a duel for love, but the castellan decreed that his daughter’s hand be granted to the winner of a noble chess game. To prevent the bloody duel, Taddeo clung to an edict issued by Cangrande della Scala, lord of Verona. There is perhaps some echo of Romeo and Juliet in this choice….
The match turned into a party in the castle square organised with great pomp. Rinaldo and Vieri challenged each other under the eyes of the castellan’s family, nobles from neighbouring towns and the people, issuing commands to the living pawns from a position of honour, respectfully following the rules of the game.
It is a story with a happy ending because the winner was the man with whom Lionora was secretly in love; to the other warrior went the younger sister in marriage. Both the real story and its historical re-enactment end with a blaze of lights, fires and hymns of joy celebrating the happiness of the maiden and her victorious lover.
The first re-enactment of this historic match was held in 1923, but it was a one-off event. The idea of making it a biennial event dates back to the 1950s.
The script, set design and costumes of the historical re-enactment were created by architect, sculptor and actor Mirko Vucetich at the suggestion of Veneto entrepreneur Angelo Carlo Festa.
The re-enactment of the 15th-century living chess game starring Rinaldo and Vieri is held in Marostica every second weekend in September of even-numbered years.
The event lasts three days, during which the game is staged four times: the first game is held on Friday evening, then repeated once on Saturday evening and twice on Sunday (afternoon and evening). This is not a tournament but repeats of the same match.
Contrary to what many tourists believe, the chess game being staged today does not faithfully reproduce the historic living chess game of 1454. This is for a practical reason: there are no written records of the moves played at the time.
The game moves are therefore taken from the finest challenges in world chess history. The challenges from which to take inspiration vary with each edition; they are proposed by the chess club of Marostica, but the final decision rests with the organising committee.
To be approved, the game must meet very precise criteria: one of these is the number of moves required to finish the game, which must be between 16 and 20.
Commands are still given in Venetian dialect, which was the official language of the Serenissima Republic of Venice in the 15th century.
The full duration of the show is about two hours.
The living chess game in Marostica is a ticketed event with numbered seats. On the days of the event, the square is closed and entrance is reserved only for ticket holders, so it is not possible to take a free peek while standing.
The grandstands that are set up for the match can accommodate around 3,600 spectators; despite this large number, it is essential to buy tickets in advance as they are usually sold out. Tickets go on sale well in advance, up to a year or more, so it is a good idea to grab them as soon as possible.
The price of a ticket for the Marostica chess match varies depending on the day and the type of seat, and ranges from around 20 euros to more than 80. The most expensive match is on Saturday, the cheapest on Sunday afternoon.
Tickets can be purchased online on the official website of the event or at the office of the Pro Marostica association. As already mentioned, however, it is advisable to book online.
The town of Marostica is not very large and the choice of accommodation within the walls is limited. If you want a romantic bed&breakfast or a boutique hotel in the centre, a stone’s throw from the famous Piazza degli Scacchi, try to book in advance so as not to risk a sell-out.
Around the centre, the choice is wide and includes b&b’ s in various price ranges, agroturisms and rural houses; there is no shortage of luxury options for those who want to treat themselves to something special.
If you do not find a room to your liking in Marostica, you can sleep in Bassano del Grappa: nearby and well-connected, it is a larger town and offers a greater choice of hotels.
The most convenient way to reach Marostica is by car. The nearest motorway exit is Dueville along the A31 Valdastico; you can easily get onto this motorway from the A4, the artery connecting Venice to Milan via Padua, Vicenza and Verona. After exiting the motorway, take state road 248 Marosticana and continue straight for about 15 km to your destination.
It is not possible to get to Marostica by train because the town’s railway station is no longer in operation.
The nearest station is Bassano del Grappa, located just 7 km away and served by regional trains on the Venice-Trento line. The Vicenza station is further away but may be more convenient because it is located along the Venice-Milan line: this is the main railway line in the north-east and is served by regional, Intercity and high-speed trains.
From both stations there are direct buses to Marostica of the local transport company FTV. The bus journey time from Bassano to Marostica is only 13 minutes, while from Vicenza it is 45 minutes; runs are quite frequent but it is a good idea to check the updated timetables on the official websites before departure.
The nearest airport to Marostica is Treviso, sometimes referred to on airline websites as Venice-Treviso. It is an important airport, served by low-cost flights departing from many Italian cities.
What's the weather at Marostica? Below are the temperatures and the weather forecast at Marostica for the next few days.
Marostica is located in central-western Veneto in a hilly area at the foot of theAsiago Plateau and falls within the province of Vicenza. It is 27 km from the provincial capital and 53 km from Padua. Venice and Verona are almost equidistant, both about 70 km away.
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